MILAN FASHION WEEK: KRIZIA F/W 2012

According to Krizia a new sobriety is inspiring fashion for next winter. Silhouettes grow longer, both in overcoats and in evening dresses, with a mysterious, priestly look (like the long icon-dresses emerging from the shadowybackground of a Piero Pizzi Cannella painting), and certainly suave with their silks and laminates. But all seriousness is soon contradicted by the long splits that reveal the entire length of the leg with each step; by top-stitching borrowed from a more casual wardrobe; by cheeky Mongolian fur shoulders on necklines (o waistcoats); by feisty leather or neoprene bodices; or by a single leather shoulder strap supporting an entire draping. Shoulders are large and slightly raised (not only in jackets and overcoats, but even in a sheath dress), emphasising the otherwise close-fitting silhouette, which is further tightened by leather strap harnesses, borrowed from certain types of work clothes; contrasting top-stitching and protective padding give garments a thickness feel, as if they were sculpted. Cuts are carefully designed to follow the body's anatomy. Contrasting inverted pleats take us by surprise, even in certain pants. Other close-fitting trousers feature a low crotch, but there are also some glossy coated tight black jeans. Whimsical leather shoulders on a draped silk dress or on oversized knitwear in kid mohair; snug poncho-scarves; not to be missed is the gold lamé pant suit, a triumph of horizontal plissés.

Colours are delicate: rust, tangerine, copper, coffee, chocolate,mustard, indigo-blue, gold, black and cream,camouflage prints.

Materials: this winter's denim features contrasting top-stitching, ennobled by combining it with cashmere. Wools. Plenty of Mongolian fur in sleeves, gaiters, collars, shoulders, shrugs and even bags.Kid mohair, lamé, viscose, knitwear with fisherman's ribbing. Silk, cady, georgette, chiffon, beads. Brown leather, neoprene. Animalier inlaying with cartoon-style tigers and panthers (also found in costume jewellery). Golden accessories (pochettes, sandals, half boots…). The soundtrack for the fashion show includes a tribute to the memory of the great Whitney Houston, ahomage to this beautiful and talented singer andactress who, as it happens, loved to wear Krizia.

photos @GiuliaBrandimarti